Gwangjang Sijang Chapssal Kkwabaegi 광장시장 찹쌀꽈배기

At the mouth of Gwangjang Market's bindaetteok alley, you watch the dough being twisted and dropped into the oil while you wait. Glutinous rice in the dough keeps the inside plump and chewy, and the plain chapssal kkwabaegi (twisted rice-flour doughnut) gets a coat of cinnamon sugar. The sweet potato version hides sweet potato paste inside, the red bean doughnut is filled with sweet red bean, and the black rice doughnut wraps red bean in a nutty dark dough. The line is long but moves fast, because batches come out continuously and usually reach you still warm. Paper bags taken home stay surprisingly free of grease.