Jin Ok-hwa Halmae Wonjo Dak Hanmari 진옥화할매원조닭한마리

Despite three floors of tables in Dongdaemun's dakhanmari alley, queues form even on weekday evenings. Japanese tourists make up a large share of the crowd, and the open kitchen leaves the cooking in full view. For two diners, a pot of clear broth holding one whole raw chicken lands on the table right away, and rice cakes and scallions go in while the bird cooks through. Groups of five or more need to tell staff before sitting down. Diners mix their own dipping sauce from chili paste, soy sauce, vinegar and mustard. Midway, kimchi stirred into the pot gives the broth a sharp edge, and kalguksu noodles finish it. Kimchi, water and minced garlic are self-serve, and you pay on the floor where you ate.