Tongnamujip Dakgalbi 통나무집닭갈비

Close to 50 years of practice sit behind the marinade, which stays mild and low in salt so the soft chicken in the iron-pan dakgalbi comes through first. Gamja-chaejeon, a pancake of shredded potato, is crisp but notably oily, and the makguksu buckwheat noodles carry a strong perilla oil aroma. Weekend queue numbers run long, though the large dining room turns tables quickly.