Wonjo Sutbul Dak Bulgogi 원조숯불닭불고기

Since 1961 this Nagwon-dong shop has grilled chicken directly over charcoal rather than on an iron griddle. Both the boneless dakgalbi and the soy-sauce version use a mild marinade that lets the smoke come through, and diners grill it themselves with no pre-cooking, flipping it every 10 seconds as staff advise. The first bites are best plain, then wrapped in lettuce or eaten with the chive salad that keeps getting refilled.