Saemteo Maru 샘터마루

The sound of water comes with every spoonful of soup, because a mountain stream runs right beside the dining area. The spot by Suyu-dong's valley has served yukgaejang, a spicy shredded-beef soup, since 1991. Plenty of green onion gives the red broth a sweet edge and little grease, but the heat is real for anyone who struggles with spicy ramyeon. Gopchang yukgaejang adds chewy, rich beef intestine, and the special bowl loads more meat. There is no parking lot, but the April 19th National Cemetery and hillside cafes are a short walk away. In spring cherry petals drift over the tables.