Ujin Haejangguk 우진해장국

Pork and bracken fern are simmered until they lose their shape, giving the gosari yukgaejang a thick, porridge-like body that sits heavy on the spoon. The flavor is savory, salty and fairly uniform. A shake of black pepper midway changes things up. Momguk, a soup made with gulfweed seaweed, is lighter and cleaner. The mung bean pancake is crisp, but bowls are large enough that two people rarely need it. On arrival, take a number at the counter first; waits run long enough that there is a separate waiting room and an unstaffed cafe.