Kim Young-ae Sundubu Bonjeom 김영애 순두부 본점

Sundubu baekban is the only dish, so you sit down, say how many you are, and the table is set almost at once. The tofu is fluffy and nutty but fairly one-note, and what lingers is often the thick biji jjigae, a soybean-pulp stew on an anchovy broth. Each side dish carries a little perilla seed, and the shop only serves until lunch.