Nongmin Baegam Sundae Bonjeom 농민백암순대 본점

Two waiting lists run side by side: the main restaurant and its annex across the street each take names at their own door, and the line forms outside. Sundae-gukbap, pork and blood sausage soup, carries a bone-broth base and more lean pork than offal, and the sausage, made without glass noodles, stays soft. With chili paste already stirred in, the bowl runs salty, and skimming some off and seasoning with salted shrimp gives a cleaner taste. The gukbap jeongsik adds a separate plate of sundae and boiled pork. Inside, it is cramped, loud and poorly ventilated, and clothes come out smelling of the soup.