Joseon Jjolboktang 조선쫄복탕

Jjolbok, small dried puffer fish, is simmered bones and all until the flesh falls into a thick, almost porridge-like broth. The texture recalls chueotang or eel soup, yet the taste stays lean; jjolboktang comes in individual earthenware bowls, while jjolbok jiri, the clear version, is served in a large pot. Seasoning comes from the chive salad on the table, and it is coated in so much hot chili that a little turns the bowl spicy and salty. The vinegar bottle tends to gush, so pour it onto a spoon first and add only a drop or two.