Seonggyeong Junchi Hoejip 선경준치횟집

Junchi, a bony herring-like fish, gets sliced bones and all, tossed with onion, cucumber and a tangy red dressing, then mixed into rice in a bowl already slicked with sesame oil. Adding a little less of the strong dressing than seems right keeps the rice from turning too salty. Byeongeo (butterfish) gets the same dressing but eats much softer, with less to chew through. The grilled conger eel in a sweet glaze pairs well with drinks. The building is a converted house with low ceilings and a tucked-away entrance, and groups of two or more must all order the same dish. Booking ahead avoids the long waits.