Jeju Seomun Susan 제주서문수산

Inside a market alley in Jeju City, a small Japanese-style kitchen runs a set course that moves between cold and hot plates. Aged sashimi opens the meal with grated yam, seaweed and seafood innards on the side, and staff explain how to eat it before the rest arrives in sequence. Bomal juk, porridge with Jeju sea snails, and soy-marinated ddaksaeu shrimp follow, then flower-crab innard stir-fried udon and otoro maki rolled thick with fatty tuna belly. Noodles and rice take up more of the course than raw fish does. Seats are few, bookings are hard to get, and the next reservation limits how long you stay, though you can bring your own drinks.