Yongsan Hoe Sikdang 용산회식당

Far from the sea, in inland Naenam-myeon, one dish has filled every table for 43 years: hoedeopbap, raw fish over rice with vegetables. Scorched-rice tea (sungnyung), side dishes and mussel soup land first, and the bowl follows quickly. Following the how-to note on the spoon holder, add chojang, tangy chili sauce, a little at a time, then wrap bites in lettuce or top them with house-made cutlassfish napa kimchi. Miss the opening and a one- to two-hour wait is common, so many take a number and visit Cheomseongdae in the meantime.