Hwangnam Bread 황남빵

The wrapper is thin enough to see through, and inside sits a red-bean filling made with Gyeongju beans that reaches almost to the edge, under a stamped flower pattern. This is the Taejong-ro original, baking since 1939, and Gyeongju has several other shops selling similar-looking buns under similar names. Hwangnam-ppang straight from the oven has a soft skin and tender paste; once cool the filling firms up, and chilling or freezing then thawing takes away much of that softness. Buyers often queue to order and come back later to collect, using the gap to walk to Cheonmachong tomb or Cheomseongdae.