Inggo Kalguksu 잉꼬칼국수

The noodles are so thick and rough-cut they're closer to sujebi, the hand-torn dough soup, which surprises anyone expecting slim kalguksu. Kalguksu is the only dish, ordered and paid for the moment you walk in, and the broth has potato and garlic chives in it. Extra noodles or rice are free on request. The cabbage kimchi on the table is hot enough that you'll want a handkerchief, while the seokbakji radish kimchi is crunchy.