Gogiri Makguksu 고기리막국수

Pure buckwheat noodles come dressed with nothing but perilla oil, crushed sesame and laver flakes; mix and eat about two thirds, then pour cold broth over the rest. If you are also ordering bibim makguksu, finish the perilla-oil bowl first, because the bibim sauce, its sweetness cut with ginger, buries the nutty aroma. Mul makguksu is as subdued as Pyongyang naengmyeon. Waits can pass an hour, and many people put their name down and spend the time at a nearby cafe.