Topyeong Mejukong 토평메주콩

Order one meal per person and makgeolli is free-flowing for an hour, which quickly turns the grilled mackerel and yukjeon (beef fried in egg batter) into drinking food. The cheonggukjang has big chunks of tofu, onion and squash and beans that still crunch, and it is mild enough to ladle generously over barley rice and mix with the namul. The pork bulgogi runs sweet, and the semi-dried grilled fish is full of fine bones that take patience to pick out. Tables are packed close, so once drinking groups settle in you hear every word from the next table.