Gangnam Jinhaejang 강남진해장

Doors stay open 24 hours from Monday to Saturday, so a bowl of yang-seonji haejang-guk, hangover soup with beef tripe and blood curd, is available even before dawn. The tripe is Korean rather than imported, and the broth, milky and heavy-looking, tastes surprisingly light and clear. The gopchang-jeongol hot pot starts out salty, then evens out as the vegetables release liquid.