Doldari Bossam Kalguksu 돌다리보쌈칼국수

Climb the stairs in this Guri Traditional Market shop and you find a paper waiting list to sign before anything else. Oyster bossam layers fresh oysters and fresh-made kimchi on boiled pork that stays tender despite being mostly lean; squid bossam replaces the oysters for anyone who avoids them. Bubbling perilla-seed kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) is the usual partner. Perilla sujebi, with hand-torn dough in the same broth, can stand in for the noodles. A small bowl of red-bean porridge comes out mid-meal, and kimchi is refilled once, but extra meat cannot be ordered.