Banchan Sikdang 반찬식당

Barley rice has been served here below Bomunsan since 1960. Waiting runs on numbered tickets, and on weekend lunchtimes it can take close to an hour. Homemade gochujang and sesame oil sit on the table for mixing the boribap with seasoned greens, and soybean-pulp stew, scorched-rice tea and steamed egg come alongside. Beyond the barley rice, the dish worth ordering is dotori-muk muchim: dense acorn jelly tossed in a cool, gently sweet dressing, eaten with dongdongju rice wine.