Hanyeong Sikdang 한영식당

The dakbokkeumtang, spicy braised chicken with potatoes, arrives in its pot with an instruction: once it boils, simmer on medium heat for 20 more minutes. Leave the lid alone and let the sauce reduce, and the sweetness of onion and the heat of chili flakes sink into the tender chicken. Save the potatoes until about half the meat is gone; by then they turn soft enough to melt in the mouth. The leftover sauce becomes fried rice with sesame oil. The only choice is large or small, and the small comfortably feeds two. Rice runs out late in the evening.