Baengbaeng Makguksu 뱅뱅막국수

Noodles at this Dogok-ro shop are pressed to order from Byeonsan buckwheat, under a chef certified as a culinary master. Sesame oil makguksu is tossed with mill-pressed sesame oil, chili flakes, gondeure (dried thistle greens from Yeongwol) and laver, with dried pollock broth on the side. The perilla oil version comes with pickled celtuce stems; wrap bites in gamtae seaweed or sprinkle on whole ground perilla seeds. On-memil is the hot bowl, topped with fried scallion, crown daisy and fish cake. A noodle set adds two pieces of buckwheat beef jeon, the half-and-half handmade dumplings mix meat and kimchi fillings, and barley rice refills are free.