Yangcheon Ppyeodagwi 양천뼈다귀

Perilla leaves pile high on the haemul-ppyeojjim, pork neck bones braised with seafood in a heavy, spicy sauce, and the medium size comes with two small octopuses. A pot of gamjatang broth arrives alongside, so the table eats rice in the soup first and finishes with fried rice tossed in perilla oil. Ramyeon or chewy jjolmyeon noodles can be added to stretch the broth. For a solo meal, ppyeo-haejangguk carries large, tender neck-bone pieces to dip in mustard sauce, with a distinctive garlic kimchi on the side. The room is old and busy with no parking, and ordering goes through a tablet. Running around the clock in Mokdong, the shop serves as a last stop after a late night out.