Yangcheonok Seolleongtang 양천옥설렁탕

Open 24 hours in Mokdong, this seolleongtang (ox-bone soup) house seats solo diners before dawn as well as groups at dinner. The teuk-seolleongtang, the upgraded bowl, carries ox-head meat and dogani (knee cartilage) in a thick, nutty broth that is noticeably heavier than the basic version. Galbi-jjim, braised short ribs, cooks until the meat falls apart like jangjorim, then sits in a sweet sauce with glass noodles and rice cakes. Paying in cash comes with extra seolleongtang broth to take away, and an attendant manages the in-house lot, though at peak meals cars end up on the roadside.