Mapo Yangji Seolleongtang 마포양지설렁탕

The broth sits between clear and milky, with thin slices of brisket and a few strands of somyeon noodles. Salt, scallions and pepper on the table finish the lightly seasoned bowl. The three kimchis, napa, scallion and seokbakji radish, go between spoonfuls, and the scallion kimchi pairs especially well. Plenty of diners order naejang suyuk (boiled beef offal) or kkori-jjim (braised oxtail) to share over soju, even early in the day. Two floors of seating keep weekday dinner waits rare, and you pay at the counter after eating. The 50-year-old shop is four minutes on foot from Gongdeok Station Exit 9.