Eulmildae Bonjeom 을밀대 본점

As soon as you sit down, a cup of warm broth arrives, smelling of buckwheat and beef. Ordering the Pyongyang naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles in beef broth, as geonaeng (without ice) brings out the savory broth and its slightly strong seasoning more clearly. The noodles are a touch thicker than at most Pyongyang-style shops, chewy but easy to bite through, topped with beef sliced as thin as jamon and lightly seasoned radish salad. Crisp mung bean pancake (nokdujeon) is the usual side, and asking for a large portion gets you a fuller bowl. The line is long enough that the shop runs air conditioning out on the street; expect 20 to 30 minutes at weekend lunch, while Sunday just after opening is calmer.