Jungnimjang Seolleongtang 중림장설렁탕

The smell of long-simmered beef bones reaches the street before the door does at Jungnimjang, a seolleongtang house running since 1972. Inside, the broth turns out clearer and milder than that aroma suggests, and it comes lightly seasoned, leaving salt to be added a little at a time. Teuk-seolleongtang, the special bowl, holds brisket, shank and head meat over a generous tangle of thin wheat noodles. Boiled meat plates such as sokkori-jjim (braised oxtail) are eaten with a seasoned dipping sauce.