Somunnan Sikdang 소문난 식당

The aged kimchi is not sweetened to mask its sourness, so the godeungeo kimchi jjim, mackerel braised under whole kimchi leaves, is sharply tart, right down to the radish underneath. The plump, rich mackerel balances the acidity when you lay torn kimchi over a bite of fish and rice. It is the only dish at this old floor-seated place in the Mullae-dong machine-shop alleys, so you just state how many people, and the meal ends with sungnyung, a toasted-rice tea.