Sinseung Banjeom 신승반점(新勝飯店)

This Chinatown restaurant is said to be run by descendants of the Gonghwachun family, and its best-known dish is yuni jjajang. Pork and onion are minced fine and fried with black bean paste, so there are no big chunks and the sauce coats the very thin noodles evenly, without much sweetness. Baek jjamppong is the clear-broth version, full of seafood. On weekends the wait can approach an hour even if you arrive right at opening, and on some days ingredients run out early.