Ijaemo Pizza Bonjeom 이재모피자 본점

The Lee Jae-mo crust packs the rim half with sausage and half with cheese, and toppings you dislike can be left off. It is old-school pizza, neither salty nor sweet, but the cheese is generous enough that plain never tips into bland. Kimchi fried rice is the usual side order, and it tastes like ordinary griddle fried rice from a snack shop. Put your name down on CatchTable and wander the Gwangbok-ro shops while you wait; over holiday weekends the wait has stretched close to five hours.