Sarangbang Kalguksu 사랑방칼국수

Since 1968 this back-alley spot in Chungmuro has served baeksuk baekban: half a boiled chicken, a rich chicken gomtang broth, a heaping bowl of rice and fresh geotjeori kimchi on one tray. Half-bird portions are rare in Seoul, which makes the meal easy for one. Solo diners are shown upstairs to single seats, where a figure collection lines the walls. The chicken comes out tender with no gamey smell. Pour chojang (vinegared chili sauce) into the little dish of chopped green onion on each table and dip the meat for a cleaner finish, or drop the chicken into the hot broth to warm it. The kalguksu noodles are boiled to order, so they take a while, and they can sell out.