Pildong Myeonok 필동면옥

The clear broth tastes almost plain at first, then builds a meaty depth with each spoonful, and stays free of grease even ice-cold. It belongs to the Uijeongbu line of Pyongyang naengmyeon, from the same family as Euljimyeonok, and the buckwheat noodles take mustard, vinegar or chili flakes to taste. Mandu (dumplings) have thin, soft wrappers packed with meat and vegetables, with crunchy onion that makes soy sauce unnecessary. Boiled meat comes as beef or pork; the cold pork belly has a chewy skin. There is no rice, broth can be topped up, and weekend waits run long.