Onsuban 온수반

The shop is tucked into a quiet lane near Namsangol Hanok Village, yet its outdoor kiosk draws a lunchtime line, and diners enter in turn to sit at a counter around the central kitchen. From those seats you watch the owner assemble each bowl. The broth is clear, beefy and free of MSG flavor; chadol-yangji onban sets thin brisket and flank over rice in it, and chadol-yangji onmyeon uses noodles instead. A heap of green onion and chili over the sliced beef keeps the finish clean. The assorted version adds chewy tendon and clean-tasting beef shank, and the tendon pairs well with the fried scallions on top. Rice and noodles are refilled free, and cilantro is available on request. Evenings are noticeably calmer than lunch.