Ogeunnae Dakgalbi 오근내 닭갈비

The iron plate holds only thigh meat, which stays moist through long stir-frying, and the sauce carries a light curry aroma. Heat builds with sweetness rather than stinging the tongue. Most seating is on the floor with shoes off, with only four chair tables, and the alley across the tracks from Yongsan Station has no parking. Diners stir the pan themselves; when the sweet potato is soft, the chicken is done. Chewy jjolmyeon noodles go in near the end, and fried rice finishes by scraping up the caramelized sauce.