Nakseong Gopchang 낙성곱창

Tripe and potatoes come out of the kitchen already cooked, leaving only the raw onion underneath to soften and the gopchang to crisp a little more at the table. The beef small intestine, trucked up from Suncheon, comes well filled, and on days when supply runs short, only the mixed platter with makchang (another intestine cut) is served. While it heats, a bowl of blood-curd and bean-sprout soup arrives, along with raw liver and tripe to dip in salted oil. Wrap the gopchang with chives, garlic and onion and dip it in the sauce, then finish with fried rice cooked in the leftover fat on the same griddle. The place is within walking distance of Isu and Chongshin Univ. stations, and evenings bring a wait.