Baekhwa Yang Gopchang 백화양곱창

Numbered stalls line this alley near Jagalchi Market, each run by its own owner, so the same sign can mean a different counter and host. Around fifteen people sit shoulder to shoulder around each briquette grill while the owner cooks and cuts the yang gopchang (beef tripe and small intestine) and keeps up the small talk. Salt-grilled, it tastes of smoke and rich marrow. The seasoned version is sweet, spicy and red, with udon noodles cooked in the sauce. Yang fried rice is stir-fried on the grill last and eaten wrapped in seaweed. Smoke and grease cling to clothes.