Najin Gukbap 나진국밥

Bean sprouts and whole perilla seeds crowd the red broth of the dwaeji-gukbap (pork soup with rice), which sets it apart from Busan-style pork soup or sundae soup. Plenty of pork head meat goes in, and the soup arrives lightly seasoned so that saeujeot, salted shrimp, can bring it up to taste. Gat-suyuk is the other draw: boiled head meat, half fatty and half lean, dipped in sweet chili-vinegar sauce and perilla powder and eaten with chives and mustard-leaf kimchi, with a small taster bowl of soup on the side. The shop sits in Hwayang-myeon, well outside central Yeosu. A kiosk by the entrance issues queue numbers, and KakaoTalk sends an alert when your table is ready.