Rotary Sikdang 로타리식당

One large tray, carried out by the elderly owners, holds the whole meal: spicy yangnyeom gejang (raw crab in red chili marinade), soy-marinated crab, a bubbling crock of crab doenjang stew, spicy stir-fried pork, Yeosu's sharp mustard-leaf kimchi and braised pollock. Crab simmers in the stew itself, and its clean shellfish broth sits under the earthy soybean paste. The set baekban, rice with many shared sides, is the only thing sold, and the owners refill whatever runs out. Hot crab broth between bites of cold marinated crab keeps the rice going longer than planned. With only four tables and four raised floor platforms, the room fills fast and a queue outside is normal even in mid-afternoon, and drivers squeeze into the lane above the shop.