Sanga Sikdang 상아식당

Whole eels about the length of a forearm simmer with dried radish greens in a clear doenjang broth; it looks like a spicy fish stew but tastes closer to mild soybean-paste soup. Tong-jangeo-tang comes two portions minimum, in one large shared pot, and the long, fine bones between the flesh slide out in a single pull. The sea squirt jeotgal served on the side is as memorable as the soup, but it disappears whenever the sea squirt supply runs short.