Hannam Bugeotguk 한남북엇국

Bugeotguk, dried pollack soup, usually comes clear and light, but this one rests on a beef-bone broth with big cubes of soft tofu, so it eats heavier. About nine side dishes are self-serve from a buffet. Tables sharing drinks build around jeon, croaker and beef slices fried in plenty of egg batter and oil, and mugeunji dwaeji jjim, tender pork braised with long-aged kimchi in a salty-sweet sauce; a chicken version on the same kimchi base exists for those who skip pork. Yukhoe bibimbap uses only a light touch of sugar, salt and sesame oil, so the raw beef's texture leads. Aged sashimi and red sea cucumber join the menu by season. Corkage is free, prices sit above a typical soup restaurant, and weekends are loud. There is usually a wait, so booking helps, and valet parking is available.