Gwangbokjip 광복집

The stone-plate yukjeon, egg-dipped pan-fried beef, uses noticeably thicker beef than most jeon pubs and comes with a fresh kimchi salad scented with sesame oil. Haemul pajeon, the seafood scallion pancake and the house specialty, is large and soft with egg in the batter, and shredded-potato pancakes and braised beef short ribs also go with makgeolli. Every table gets a complimentary sundubu soft-tofu stew; the owner once ran a sundubu restaurant, and the stew is mild and silky enough that some buy the seasoning paste to take home. Several makgeolli labels are stocked, and the owner speaks good Japanese.