Guksu Madang Bonjeom 국수마당 본점

The gogi-guksu broth is thick enough to recall dogani-tang or seolleongtang, both slow-simmered beef soups, and the spoon keeps going after the noodles are gone. The thick noodles look swollen but are not. Gogi-guksu can be had anywhere in Jeju, but one diner had never come across bibim gogi-guksu before eating it here: a sweet, pleasantly hot sauce close to jjolmyeon, tossed with thick pieces of pork. A separate plate of suyuk, boiled pork, is big enough to turn heavy partway through.