Gosami 고삼이

The smell of grilling fish reaches well past the door of this Sinchon diner, where Spanish mackerel and mackerel sizzle nonstop out front. One salt-grilled samchi (Spanish mackerel) is big enough for two and has firm, lean flesh. Since everyone must order a dish, the sensible split is one samchi plus ojingeo-bokkeum, stir-fried squid with thick, smoky pieces in a dense gochujang sauce that looks hotter than it tastes. Grilled godeungeo (mackerel), softer and oilier, is dipped in soy sauce with wasabi. Sundubu-jjigae, spicy soft tofu stew, covers the soup side.