Gobong Samgyetang 고봉삼계탕

Sanghwang mushrooms turn the broth of this samgyetang yellow and thick, nothing like the clear version most ginseng chicken soup houses serve. The restaurant is up a flight of stairs on a Myeongdong back street, and the chicken falls easily off the bone. Salt on the table adjusts the light seasoning, and a splash from the small glass of ginseng liquor served with each bowl lifts the aroma of the soup. Many tables add jeongi tongdak-gui, a lean electric rotisserie chicken. Side dishes are self-serve, with onion and cucumber pickles to cleanse the palate. With about 100 seats there is usually room, except on boknal, the midsummer chicken-soup days, when lines stretch long.