Geumseong Sikdang Cheonggukjang 금성식당 Cheonggukjang 청국장

There is barely any broth: fermented beans cover the bottom of the pot and dense tofu simmers in with them, and the cheonggukjang here eats more like a thick paste than a stew. For all its smell, the seasoning is not salty. Every diner must order a meal, which rules out sitting down with just makgeolli and a side dish. Ori baeksuk, whole duck simmered in broth, takes a long time to cook.