Gakjibul 각지불

Deulkkae-agutang, monkfish simmered in perilla-seed broth, starts nutty and turns quietly spicy toward the end. When the solids are nearly gone, order one more bowl of rice and stir it into the leftover broth until it thickens like porridge. Sweet, mild kimchi comes on the side, and after paying you get a cup of house-made sikhye, a cold rice drink. The waiting list fills before opening, and once ingredients run out the doors close, even mid-afternoon.