Dolhareubang Sikdang 돌하르방식당

Gakjaegi is Jeju dialect for horse mackerel, and gakjaegiguk simmers big bone-in chunks of it with napa cabbage in a doenjang broth. The broth comes out mild, and chili, minced garlic, dadaegi paste and cheongyang peppers sit on the table so each person sets their own heat. Grilled mackerel gets wrapped in raw cabbage with salted anchovy sauce. It is closer to a neighborhood canteen than a tourist stop, and older locals at the next table often have makgeolli with their soup.