Damotori Hieut 다모토리히읗

A five-glass makgeolli sampler lets you taste rice wines from different breweries before committing to a bottle at this small Haebangchon bar. The list is organized by region, running from sparkling Boksundoga to Haechang and makgeolli brewed with Gongju chestnuts, Hongcheon pine nuts or Udo peanuts. Grilled galbi arrives with two chive salads, one in soy dressing and one with chili flakes. Suyuk, sliced boiled pork, comes with freshly tossed geotjeori, cabbage kimchi so new the leaves are still nearly raw. Cold yukhoe (raw beef), seafood kimchi pancake and acorn jelly salad round out the snacks, after a starter of rice crackers. Evenings bring a wait, and tables and bar seats share one compact room.