Daeryeonjip 대련집

Starch from the broad wheat noodles thickens the milky beef-bone broth of the sagol kalguksu until it is almost like rice-cake soup. A single order sometimes arrives split into two smaller bowls, with heavily chili-coated geotjeori kimchi on the side. Lunch is mostly noodles, while by evening the tables fill with drinkers. Most of those tables order saengbaechu bossam: boiled pork wrapped in big, sweet raw napa cabbage leaves with tangy radish salad. Thick pajeon, beef yukhoe tossed with pear, and braised skate or dried pollack round out the drinking menu. Past a small entrance, several rooms with warm heated floors open up, mostly low floor tables set close together.