Chogajip Buttumak Cheonggukjang 초가집 부뚜막청국장

A kettle of sungnyung, a toasted-rice drink, lands on the table first, followed by mixed barley and white rice with five namul (seasoned vegetables) for bibimbap. You pick one stew to go with it: cheonggukjang (pungent fermented soybean stew), ureong doenjang with chewy freshwater snails, or sundubu soft tofu stew, then spoon it over the rice bit by bit. The cheonggukjang keeps whole fermented beans and leans salty, so adding it gradually makes sense. The bossam set adds boiled pork belly with pickled gomchwi leaves, whose sharp aroma works well wrapped together with the meat. Inside is larger than the exterior suggests, with both tables and floor-seating rooms, and the small lot next door fills on weekends.