Gobau 고바우

At this old-school grill near Onsu Station, thick chunks of unmarinated pork, deonggeori saenggogi, cook over coal briquettes and pick up a smoky edge. The owner trims meat throughout the evening and the heavy grill plates are carried over and swapped out. Pork ribs come two ways: grilled over the fire, or as naembi galbi simmered in a pot, whose spicy version has a sweet, fiery broth. Add glass noodles, then fry rice in what is left once the broth cooks down. Lettuce, onion and whole garlic are free at the self-service bar, and blood sausage and bean sprout soup plus kkakdugi come with every table. The room runs hot in summer.